Bra Basics (and a Word on Shapewear)

Why bras are confusing (it’s not you)

Bra sizing is famously muddled. Different countries use different numbers, brands fit differently, and lots of shops still use old measuring methods. Plenty of women wear the wrong size for years! So if this feels new - you’re in excellent company.

The two parts of a size

A bra size like AU 14C / UK 36C has two parts:

• The band (the number) - the size of the strap that goes round your ribcage. This does most of the support work (around 80%), not the straps.
• The cup (the letter) - how much volume the cup holds relative to the band. A C cup isn’t one fixed size: a 12C and an 18C hold very different amounts.

Measuring at home

You’ll need your soft tape and a mirror. Measure wearing a non-padded bra or nothing.

1. Underbust (snug): pull the tape snugly round your ribcage, right under your chest, level all the way round. Breathe out. This is the starting point for your band.
2. Bust (loose): measure round the fullest part of your chest without squashing. Many fitters also take a leaning bust (bend forward 90° and measure) for a better read on volume.
3. The difference between bust and underbust roughly gives the cup: about 2.5 cm (1 inch) per cup letter - 2.5 cm ≈ A, 5 cm ≈ B, 7.5 cm ≈ C, 10 cm ≈ D, and so on.

Underbust (approx.)	AU	UK / US	EU
68–72 cm	10	32	70
73–77 cm	12	34	75
78–82 cm	14	36	80
83–87 cm	16	38	85
88–92 cm	18	40	90
93–97 cm	20	42	95

Sister sizes: your secret shortcut

If you go down a band size, go up a cup letter (and vice versa) to keep the same cup volume. So AU 14C ≈ AU 12D ≈ AU 16B. Band feels loose but the cups fit? Try the sister size with a smaller band.

The fit checklist

Do up the band on the loosest hook (it’ll stretch over time, and you can tighten it), then check:

• ✅ Band sits level all the way round and doesn’t ride up at the back. You can fit about two fingers under it.
• ✅ Cups are smooth - no spilling over the top or sides, no wrinkly empty space.
• ✅ Straps stay put without digging in. If they’re doing the heavy lifting, the band is too loose.
• ✅ Underwire (if any) sits on your ribcage around the breast tissue, not on it.
• ✅ Centre gore (the bit between the cups) sits close to your chest. If you have a wider-set chest or smaller breasts, it may not touch - that’s completely fine.

Then do the scoop and swoop: lean forward and gently scoop tissue from under your arms into the cups. It often changes the fit more than you’d think!

The bra family

Type	What it is	Great for
Bralette	Soft, wire-free, often lace, lightly lined or unlined	Comfort, lounging, smaller chests, peeking out of a top
Wire-free / soft cup	Structured but no wire	Everyday comfort
T-shirt / moulded	Smooth seamless foam cups	Invisible under fitted tops
Push-up / padded	Extra padding at the bottom and sides	Adding shape and cleavage
Plunge	Low centre for deep necklines	V-necks and wrap tops
Balconette	Wide-set straps, horizontal top edge	Square and sweetheart necklines
Strapless / multiway	Straps removable or convertible	Off-shoulder and halter tops
Sports bra	Compression or encapsulation support	Exercise, and super comfy every day
Pocketed bra	Has inner pockets for inserts or forms	Adding shape with pads or breast forms

Budget: Discount department stores and high-street favourites (like Target, Walmart, Primark, Marks & Spencer or Cotton On) have great basic bras for $10–25 / £8–20. Mid-range brands (Bonds, Aerie, Berlei, Triumph) offer sturdier support. Most major department stores and independent bra boutiques offer free fittings - professional fitters have seen every shape and size imaginable.

A word on shapewear

Shapewear is snug, stretchy underwear that smooths and gently holds. It comes as high-waisted briefs, shorts (great against thigh chafing too!), slips, camis and bodysuits.

• It’s never required. Plenty of women never wear it.
• Use it to smooth lines under slinky fabrics, or just because you like the feeling of being held.
• Don’t size down. Shapewear that’s too small rolls, digs in, and is genuinely uncomfortable. It should feel like a firm hug, not a vice.
• Choose light or medium control for everyday; save firm control for a few hours at an event.
• Cheap and cheerful: Department stores, supermarkets and high-street chains (Target, Primark, M&S, Walmart). Spanx and Skims are the famous (pricier) names.